“My last dinner as a husband—and arguably, as a man—was a fried tilapia,” writes Detransition, Baby author Torrey Peters (read her essay on this final meal with her ex-wife in Uganda). This recipe, inspired by that meal, features a whole fish rubbed with a spice blend reminiscent of mchuzi mix, a seasoning popular in Kenya and other parts of Africa, then fried and served with peppery piri-piri sauce. Whole fish, while dramatic in appearance, are actually a lot more forgiving to cook than boneless fillets, which can overcook and dry out easily. Look for a fish around 2 lb. so it will fit into a wok or skillet and cook through relatively quickly.