Loosely inspired by Sichuanese dan dan noodles, this saucy, spicy, satisfying, and meatless recipe starts with tofu that’s been torn into small crumbles, then seared hard on the stove. Don’t be afraid to go full Hulk on the tofu as you squeeze out every bit of water. You’re going to be obliterating it anyway, and getting out as much moisture as possible is critical to achieving the final ground-meat-like texture.